Louisville hidden gem Volare conjures authentic Italian cuisine with spirited Southern charm.
Volare Ristorante
2300 Frankfort Ave.
Italian/Southern
4.5 stars
When I pondered where to begin my voyage inside Louisville’s best-kept foodie secrets, I never imagined that COVID-19 would keep us out of local restaurants through December 13- which just so happened to be my birthday. So there I was, torn between waiting to be able to help populate the 50% capacity mandate and just throwing down the gauntlet, choosing to critique one of my most-trusted locally-owned restaurant choices for a grandiose birthday gorging.
I chose Volare.
At the end of the day, it was an easy decision. Also, it was relatively fitting that my inaugural critique for “Al and the Forks” amidst a pandemic in 2020 be a carry-out order, and have my children alongside me as the special guests.
Volare means “to fly” in Italian. Since their grand opening in 2004, they have become a staple on Frankfort Avenue’s ever-impressing foodie corridor. From the culinary paintbrush of award-winning Chef Josh Moore to the polite, accommodating hospitality of the service and reception staff, Volare shows why it is not only a beacon of the restaurant industry but also a pillar of locally-owned businesses across the 502. My family and I had eaten a large brunch and placed the order around 4:00 p.m. online. We picked up the order just after 5.
Starters
For an appetizer, we went old-school Italy with an order of Salsiccia; mild, thin Italian sausage links sauteed with red, green, and yellow sliced bell peppers. From the initial bite, the sausage casing offers a satisfying crunch without the extra carnivorous tug of the teeth. It lets you dive into a fennel-laden sausage dripping with a wine sauce that you’ll want to mop up with bread in between samples. The peppers are entirely true to color, with the reds and yellows sprinkling in a sweetness to pair with the savory sauce.
The Main Course
Next, we moved on to the main course. We chose the Bolognese with Gemelli pasta, Capellini di Sorento, and of course the main event: Maiale. With in-house made Caesar salads giving us time to cool off from the heavy sausages, it was time to throw ourselves at some pasta dishes.
The Bolognese was wonderful. Every freshly-cut carrot and onion permeated the pallet with every nibble. The Gemelli was quaint enough to scoop up with a fork. The Capellini was a nice touch. There had to be a break from the thickness of the hearty Bolognese. The pasta you could twist with ease, as the cream sauce soaked into each bite without a drip. I was a little disappointed with the absence of herbs in the sauce, but it wasn’t enough to deter me from finishing.
The Maiale, grilled pork prime rib, was a tier above the rest of the entrees. However, perhaps even more remarkable was the side of parmesan potato gnocchi, cresting above the butter, adjacent to the sauteed spinach, which was disappointingly bland. Each dish complimented the next, and the warm bread in between served well to cleanse the pallet.
Dessert
To top off the meal, we ordered Volare’s most talked about dessert on the menu, Vanilla Bean Panna Cotta. A soft, eggless custard, it comes topped with fresh blueberries and raspberries, drizzled with a tart, balsamic vinegar to offset the rich flavor of the custard. What I enjoy most about this dish is it’s light consistency. Mind you, I’m only minutes removed from the starches of pasta and potato gnocchi. The Panna Cotta allows you to enjoy a dessert without your belt bursting.
Another magnetic force for Volare is their ideal location. Nestled comfortably in the Crescent Hill area, it draws East Enders, Highlands residents, and Downtown Louisville nightlife seekers. It’s location boasts the stretch of Frankfort Ave. that invites Louisville in, while fully displaying its vibrant neighborhood’s calling card. Volare Louisville is open Sunday-Thursday 4:30-10 p.m. and Friday-Saturday 4:30-11 p.m. They do deliver within a reasonable radius everyday from 4:30-8:30 p.m.
All in all, Volare’s cuisine is an extraordinary blend of the old country and American comfort food, like Don Corleone with a Southern accent. There’s something for everyone, even those picky children. I highly recommend this place! Thanks for joining me.
